Wednesday, March 13, 2013
Guide to fix a leak
When your spa springs a leak it is important to follow this instructions so that you can ensure you get rid of the leak for good and get your spa back in good condition.
Remove the filter from the spa, then fill the spa with water, at this point do not put chemicals or chlorine into your spa.
Set the spa filter cycle for 24 hours.
Be sure to set the temperature of the spa 80 degrees.
Make certain you open all of the spa jets so that water can flow easily through all of the jets during the filter cycle.
The Venturi valves need to be placed in the on position.
Remember to shake the bottle of Fix-a-Leak thoroughly, then pour ½ the bottle of Fix-a-leak into the filter well, close to the spa filter intake, making sure the pumps are running on high speed.
The water will need to circulate for 24 hours.
It is highly recommended that you tell people not to enter the spa or touch the water, letting them know you are treating the hot tub with dangerous chemicals.
Once the 24 hour period is up, you will need to drain the hot tub water and rinse out the Fix-a-Leak residue thoroughly. The Fix-A-Leak residue will appear to be acrylic, make sure to scrub your hot tub well and get all of the residue out.
Take the time to wipe down the whole spa to make sure any remaining Fix-A-Leak film on the shell of the spa is eliminated.
At this point the spa will need to remain empty for 48 hours to ensure the Fix-a-Leak has enough time to harden and adhere to the hot tub's plumbing.
Once the 48 hours is up refill the spa and reinstall the filter.
Now you can mark the water level, and set the temperature to of the spa to 100 degrees.
At this time you can reset your hot tub's filter cycle to 2 hours per day and allow the hot tub to filter for 48 hours.
Proceeding the 48 hours you can check for leaks in the spa, attentively looking for leaks along the plumbing sides inside the front panel of the spa.
You should then perform an equipment check. Carefully checking the pumps, lights, and blower, making sure the spa is in complete working order.
If your spa is still leaking repeat this cycle.
This method here is just a quick fix for pin hole leaks.
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Spa Doc-
ReplyDeleteI have a 1993 Hot Spring Classic FH with a drain leak. I got this tub from someone who had it stored empty and thought it was in working condition. I got it back to the house cleaned it all up, and was testing out all the systems before placing it/wiring the 230v and discovered that it has a leak in the drain or other lower component. It leaks from the area around the light lens. The lens is fine, but the water seeps up from the bottom and runs out where the tub and shell come together near the light. To verify the source of the leak, we drained the tub entirely, cleared the pumps, cleared the filter area out, and refilled it to a level below the lens of the any of the other jets/moto openings, so the only place the water can go into the "system" is the drain at the bottom. It leaks once the water level in the tub gets higher than the opening for the lens inside the pump area. It takes a while for it to appear, and we had to wait maybe 20min or more to see any water trickle out. We drained it, and removed the drain fitting from inside the tub and it looks fine. Then we put the tub up on Cinder blocks to have a look at the bottom and there are no wet or damaged areas that indicate a leak. The only discoloration is around the whole where the pump equipment is located as the water runs out from the lens over the edge and out the bottom.
The unit was stored with the drain open but I suspect the last owner did not clear the drain line and/or water got in the tub and down the drain and froze. Everything else seems to work and the leak is constant but not a geyser. I can not seem to locate a plumbing diagram out what is under the foam and where, so I am hesitant to dig into it to look for a root cause.
Since the leak is associated with he drain could I just fill up a low level of water, put in the fix-a-leak and then cycle the heater pump only, and avoid sending the leak fix stuff through the jets and main pump. My thought is that I would rather not put the fix stuff in areas I dont think leak to prevent potential new issues with jets, seals ...etc.
So do you recommend this approach, or fill the tub all the way and do it, or dig the foam out along the drain and look for a leak? What plumbing is below the pump deck to be checked?
Thanks!
Russ
Sorry for the late reply Russ,
DeleteIf the spa is still on blocks that would be great, but make sure you have the blocks on the 2 runner boards underneath the spa. Usually I would have the spa up on timbers. Make sure you have it high enough for you to work under but still stable enough so it won't fall on you. No other plumbing should be under jet pump deck. There should be only plumbing for the drain. Main drain plumbing from the center of the spa and secondary drain for the plumbings of the jet. It sounds like you might have a bad glue job to the drain line. Yes you will have to dig the foam out. The light lense might need to be replaced, thats if you can't find a plastic weld kit called DEVCON repair kit. Digging is your best option to fix the leak to last a little longer than using the fix a leak...
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ReplyDeleteThanks much for the detailed analysis on how to fix a leak in a spa!
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI liked your blog very much it is very interesting and I learned many things from this blog which is helping me a lot.
Thanks a lot!
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